We developed our itinerary so that we could explore a bit in the Bavarian (German) and Tyrolean (Austrian) Alps. For us, it’s just a simple pleasure to be in the mountains, even when we’re winding up a 23% grade or hairpin turns and dense forest.
Zugspitse, Germany & Austria
One of our Alpine destinations was Zugspitze, the tallest peak in Germany at 2962 m / 9700 ft. The border between Germany and Austria splits the peak. There are cable car lines from both countries; we happened to have chosen the loft from Ehrwald, Austria.
As far as we know, there’s no historical drama here. Just splendid Alpine views. We were fortunate to have had a clear day. Technically we were able to see peaks in Austria, Germany, Switzerland and Italy – not that we could distinguish any of them! Zugspitze may be the tallest peak in Germany, but Austria’s top peak (Grossglockner at 3798 m / 12,461 ft) and Switzerland’s top peak (Dufourspitze at 4634 m / 15,203 ft) and Italy’s top peak (Castor at 4233 m / 13,887 ft) think Zugspitze is just a little cutie!
Somehow, there are always rambunctious crows up at Alpine summits.
Nesselwängle, Tyrol, Austria
One day, we headed west from Füssen toward Lake Constance where Germany, Austria and Switzerland touch. It was a sunny autumn day and the route promised to take us along Alpine foothill valleys.
After some nice routes, we came to the small Bavarian town of Bad Hindelang. On the main road at the entrance to the town, the route was blocked. We were detoured around through the narrow streets of the village — to a dead end! We backtracked and tried another detour route on the other side of the main road. Dead end again, but this time up the hill, looking down on the main drag through town. Main drag, indeed. Today was a vintage car and motorcycle party. Important enough apparently to completely close the only road through the valley.
As GPS used to say, we recalculated. Forget Lake Constance; new route into the Austrian Alps.
And we’re happy with this turn of course. At about the time we were thinking about lunch, we happened on this sunny lake, valley and terrace restaurant.
Here’s how the local tourist office celebrates this little spot:
Rolling hills, lush meadows and a sky that seems to go on forever – the Tannheimer Tal in the Allgäu Alps is an idyllic mountain valley with the small village of Nesselwängle at its eastern end.
Although it officially lies on the edge of the Alps, this settlement of 430 inhabitants with a pedestrianised village centre is perched high at 1,136 metres above sea level in what is one of the highest valleys in Tirol. The hamlet of Haller stands on the shores of the Lake Haldensee, a pretty lake popular with windsurfers, rowers and sailors in summer. There is also an outdoor swimming pool next to the lake. The region’s mountains such as the Gimpel, Rote Flüh and Krinnenspitze offer excellent hiking trails and rock climbing routes.
(source)
Our only hike was to the lunch menu.
Berchtesgaden, Germany
One famous – and infamous – destination is the so-called Eagle’s Nest (or Kehlsteinhaus in German) above the alpine village of Berchtesgaden. The famous part is that it’s a ridge at 1834 m / 6017 ft m elevation, or 1262 m / 4140 ft above the valley floor. The view does not disappoint: into the surrounding mountains, down to the tiny houses on a green carpet far below, and even off to the flatlands to the north, including Salzburg. On our day, we looked down on the clouds that were shrouding the town.
But this is infamous because Hitler and his people used it for relaxation, planning, and occasionally to try to impress foreign dignitaries.
We weren’t drawn to the Eagle’s Nest because of this difficult history; in fact, we considered not going because we didn’t want to participate in any kind of fascination. But the spot is stunning, and especially in today’s world, it isn’t a bad idea to keep the lessons of Nazi Germany in mind.
Access to the Eagle’s Nest is almost as dramatic as the view. We drove ourselves quite a way up the mountain to the base stop for the required bus trip further up. The buses are full size and 100% electric, and they zigged and zagged up the steep and narrow road. At the top of the bus route, we walked down a stone tunnel into the mountain, and rode up a 1930s elevator 124 m / 406 ft to the main house.
This access road, tunnel and elevator shaft were built starting in 1937 at Hitler’s orders. Over 3,000 men worked day and night, winter and summer, for 13 months to complete the project. The road was blasted out of the mountainside, passing through five tunnels to get to the entrance. Heavy wooden gates guarded the opening into the Kelhstein, leading into a 406 foot (124 meter) tunnel cut into the heart of the mountain. An elevator shaft the same length as the tunnel was then cut straight up through the mountain to the peak itself. ※ Twelve workers died during this construction. ※
Das Ronacher Therme & Spa Resort, Bad Kleinkirchheim, Austria
We’re now in the southern Tyrolean Alps, not far from the Italian border.
We chose this little respite mostly to break up the drive between Vienna and Venice, which would have been about seven hours total. We weren’t aware of any particularly notable attractions midway along the route. But we did have the idea of trying a hot-water spa somewhere along our travels. There, in the small town of Bad Kleinkirchheim, is Das Ronacher Therme & Spa resort.
What a good choice we (by chance) made.
It’s like a sea day on a cruise, but nestled in the mountains instead. The hotel has five thermal pools, including our favorite that is outside and is heated to 34 degrees C / 94 degrees F. There are chaise lounges everywhere, inside and out. You can relax inside in all manner of comfortable chairs. Perhaps you’d like to watch a film on a tablet; there are equipped niches for that. Saunas and heated salt-water pools, mindfulness sessions, yoga, and on and on.
When we entered the dining area for our first dinner, a hostess greeted us warmly, and then a svelte blonde woman joined us and introduced herself as Simone Ronacher, and she’d be glad to escort us to our table by the window. In fact, this would be our table for our entire visit. We then were presented with a 6-course meal (we could only eat about 4 of the courses, there was so much food). Our server was charming and full of humor. We truly felt pampered.
We spent our one full day at the hotel outside in and around the pools. We were very lucky to have a bright day with cool air and hot sun. You won’t give us sympathy when we say that, after three weeks of our road trip, we really “needed” this little break.
We’re optimistic that this will not be our final spa-hotel experience.
October 2024