Shrines of Nikko

One of the foremost reasons to visit Nikko is a set of remarkable and ancient shrines. That’s what we’d been told by some friends who love visiting Japan. OK, we thought, why not? We love Japanese architecture. The shrines comprise a UNESCO World Heritage Site, so that’s an endorsement too.

From UNESCO:
The Shrines and Temples of Nikko form a single complex composed of one hundred three religious buildings within two Shinto shrines (The Tôshôgû and The Futarasan-jinja) and one Buddhist temple (The Rinnô-ji) located in an outstanding natural setting…. The religious buildings, many of which were constructed in the 17th century, are arranged on the mountain slopes…. The first buildings were constructed on the slopes of the sacred Nikko mountains by a Buddhist monk in the 8th century.
Today, they testify to a centuries-old tradition of conservation and restoration as well as the preservation of religious practices linked to a site considered to be sacred. They are also closely associated with prominent chapters of Japanese history, especially those relating to the symbolic figure of the great Shogun, Tokugawa Ieyasu (1543-1616). (source)

A bit more about Tokugawa Ieyasu:

Tokugawa Ieyasu was the founder and first shōgun of the Tokugawa Shogunate of Japan, which ruled from 1603 until the Meiji Restoration in 1868. He was one of the three “Great Unifiers” of Japan. (※) Tokugawa Ieyasu possessed a combination of organizational genius and military aptitude that allowed him to assert control of a unified Japan. As a result, his family presided over a period of peace, internal stability, and relative isolation from the outside world for more than 250 years. (※)

The shrines hide in the forest up a steep hill from the valley’s river.

We started the climb up a road, and stone stairs, and ramps. Some attractive red buildings appeared, and a simple torii gate. The buildings were nice, but nothing that special. We wondered what all the fuss was about.

But the way continued: past these buildings, among various stone sculptures, up more stairs and among towering cedar trees. Up lots and lots of stairs!

And then, we turned left into a clearing framed by intricate, ornate, bold colorful buildings. One more rich and adorned than the last. Gold and color and riots of carvings on every surface. All amongst the feet of dwarfing cedar trees.

There’s lots of history here, of course. We’ll share a few quotes next. But mostly, we wish we could convey the exquisite beauty of the place. Every way you look, there’s more wonder. We only barely understand the spiritual and Japanese cultural meanings here, but we do understand exceptional beauty.

The towering cedar trees on both sides of the path were originally planted in the Edo period to provide a suitably regal approach to Nikko Toshogu Shrine. Around 200,000 were planted over a 20-year period, and today some 12,500 remain. (source)

*_{Looking back through the torii at the allé of cedars}*

Five-storied Pagoda
The five-storied pagoda in Toshogu is considered to be the most elegant five-storied pagoda in Japan because of its beautiful colors and decorations. The original pagoda was built in 1650 and burnt down later. The present pagoda was rebuilt in 1818. The central pillar is hung from the fourth story and doesn’t touch the ground. This is the technology to minimize the damage from earthquakes and winds. (source)

Shinkyuusha (Sanzaru, three monkeys)
The first thing that comes into view when entering the ground of Toshogu are three distinct buildings that are also known as the “Three Sacred Storehouses”. [On one of the buildings], the engraving of the “Three Wise Monkeys” catches the eye of many a visitor. They stand for the old teachings of childhood: speak no evil, hear no evil, see no evil – the last one is also often exchanged for “do no evil.” This monkey sculpture has eight different sides which are said to represent a human life. (source)

The Sleeping Cat
This small carving is one of the most famous at Nikko Toshogu. The cat protects the entrance gate to the grave of Lord Tokugawa leyasu. This gate was only officially opened when the Shogun came to worship here. On the reverse of the carving are two sparrows happily flying around. The combination of the cat and the sparrows represents the co-existence of the strong and the weak, and the era of peace that Lord Tokugawa leyasu sought to create in Japan after centuries of civil wars.
[From placard at the site]

Yomeimon Gate
This gate is the most extravagantly decorated gate in Japan. There are 508 carvings on the Gate, including dragons, flying horses and other mythical beasts in the upper reaches of the building, with carvings of people on the lower levels. These carvings of people portray political ideals and wisdom as well as praising the achievements of Lord Tokugawa leyasu in creating an era of peace and prosperity in Japan. One of the pillars to the left at the back of the Gate is upside down. It is said that this was done deliberately so that the Gate could not be considered complete, since completion would invite bad luck.
[From placard at the site]

200 Steps
Behind the rear shrine called okumiya, which contains the tomb of Tokugawa Ieyasu, are the famous 200 stone steps. Every step is made out of a single stone, as well as the long handrailing along the stairs, which is carved from one single boulder. (source)

Okumiya Haiden
Further up the stairs is the okumiya haiden, a place that only the Shogun himself was allowed to enter, a pagoda containing the sarcophagus of the ruler himself. Close to this pagoda stands a sacred tree called the kanaesugi which is said to grant people’s wishes. (source)

Lord Tokugawa leyasu is buried beneath the pagoda. The current pagoda is 5 meters tall and made of a precious alloy of gold, silver and copper. It was made in 1683 to replace the first wooden, and the later stone version. The grave itself has never been opened since the Shogun was interred here in 1617.
[From placard at the site]