Around Nikko

Imperial Villa

Along with the famous shrines of Nikko, another attraction in the area is the former Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa. 

The former Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa was built in the year of Meiji 32 (1899) as a vacation residency for Prince Yoshito (the Taisho Emperor).
From 1918 to 1920 (years 7-9 of the Taisho Era) the villa was extensively modified and enlarged. Between 1872 and 1888, the Meiji Emperor resided in the Akasaka Imperial Palace (that was the official Temporary Imperial Palace). The third floor, where the emperor conducted matters of state, was dismantled and reassembled in its present position here.
During World War II, in 1944, Prince Akihito … resided in the villa for almost a year before its eventual evacuation.
This building is the largest wooden structure among all the imperial villas. Constructed during the Meiji and Taisho eras, it has … a floor area of 4,500 sq.m.
Architecturally, the building shows a variety of styles: the Sukiya-Shoin Style, Court Style and an amalgam of Western and Japanese motifs.
The building is of historical and cultural importance in that it has been a functioning imperial villa through the course of Edo, Meiji and Taisho eras.
(from a plaque on site)

The sprawling villa sits amid a lovely landscaped park. It’s full of carefully-placed trees and plants, meandering walks and brooks, and framed vistas – as you’d expect. We visited when we could feel the first whispers of autumn: a few red or yellow leaves here and there. 

The exterior of the villa is all wood, gabled roofs, and open doorways. 

We removed our shoes at the entry, paid a small fee, and started the prescribed path through some of the 106 rooms in the villa. The first collection of rooms included some explanatory panels, which we dutifully inspected.

Tatami mats covered the floor, although there was carpet as well. One wall of these rooms opened completely onto an atmospheric landscaped courtyard.  

We strolled into the next rooms. More explanatory panels. More tatami; more views into courtyards and out to the park. 

Quickly we realized that, without their occupants, without courtly life, every room looks just like every other room. A space for ladies in waiting looks the same as the imperial audience chamber – except for the big chair. 

Nonetheless, we enjoyed quite a few nicely framed views of the pretty park. It was fun to walk quietly in socked feet through the rooms, feeling the texture of the tatami, and trying to imagine what life was like here when the emperor and the empress were in residence. 

Later, when we were recounting to our Japanese friends what we did in Nikko after they had left, they said something like, “Did you enjoy all those identical rooms?”

Shinkyo Bridge

The main road through Nikko town parallels the Daiya River. Not far from the entrance to the Shrines area, this attractive red bridge arches over the river.

The Shinkyo Bridge (神橋, Shinkyō, “sacred bridge”) stands at the entrance to Nikko’s shrines and temples, and belongs to Futarasan Shrine. The bridge is ranked as one of Japan’s three finest bridges together with Iwakuni’s Kintaikyo and Saruhashi in Yamanashi Prefecture. The current Shinkyo was constructed in 1636, but a bridge of some kind had marked the same spot for much longer, although its exact origins are unclear. (source)

Trick Art

One afternoon in Nikko was chilly and rainy. Our hosts asked if we’d like to go see some Trick Art. 

“Trick Art? What’s that?”

“Oh, you know. Trick Art!”

Something cultural, probably. Of course, we’re up for anything.

Our hosts drove up to a nondescript parking lot along a local road. We marched into a building that looked like a small hardware store. Lots of families with children squished into the little utilitarian lobby. Tickets are bought.

Now, this is a serious art institution:

Nikko Kanaya Hotel

Our hosts arranged for our stay in a notable hotel in Nikko. Notable because it is the oldest Western-style resort hotel in Japan.

In 1873, only five years after the Meiji Restoration, Zenichiro Kanaya opened Kanaya Cottage Inn, which was specifically designated to accommodate foreign guests. In relocating the business to another location in Nikko, he established a full-fledged hotel, Kanaya Hotel, which is widely known today as the oldest western-style resort hotel in Japan. Following Zenichiro’s death in 1923, his son Shinichi took over the hotel management. However, the hotel underwent difficult times during the Second World War when many of its employees were drafted into military service. When the war ended in 1945, the American army of occupation assumed control of the hotel. This lasted until 1952.
While Japan has drastically changed over the years, Kanaya Hotel has followed in the footsteps of its founder and upheld its tradition with pride as Japan’s oldest western-style resort hotel. (source)

One night, we enjoyed an impressive Japanese meal at a handsome little restaurant in Nikko Town. We’re sorry but we didn’t note down the name of the restaurant, nor the specific plates of the meal. But you can see that the local specialty, yuba, anchored the beautiful and delicious menu. (More about yuba in a previous post, Lake Chuzenji and Hints of Fall.)

October 2023